One of the main factors that determines, not only the price, but the useful life, comfort and what we can expect from a shoe, is the construction method used to manufacture it.

The main way to differentiate footwear construction methods is the way in which the sole is joined with the upper part of the footwear; For a better understanding of this article, let us first analyze the basic elements of footwear:

- Upper part or cut, is the area that covers the foot from the top when we have the footwear on.

- Insole, is the piece on which our foot rests when we put on our shoes.

- Sole, is the bottom of the shoe in contact with the floor when walking.

Having clarified these three basic concepts, it is time to describe the most common methods of footwear construction.

GLUED FOOTWEAR

It is the most common method of building footwear. The sole and the upper are impregnated with contact glue that are reacted by means of heat or light so that when they are joined and pressure is applied, it is sealed.

Advantages. One of the main ones is the speed of assembly, also in case of wear it is possible to replace the worn sole.

Disadvantages. If the union of the upper and the sole is not performed correctly, it can lead to a shorter duration of the shoe.

Examples: Wonders , Inter Bios , Tolino , Pablosky

SEWED FOOTWEAR "BLAKE"

This is one of the two main methods of sewing the sole of footwear, the "blake" or "blind stitching" is the most common in men's footwear. This type of sewing is done with machines, so that once the shoe is built, the needle pierces the sole from the outside to the inside, joining the insole with the sole and the cut or upper part that remains between the sole and insole. A single stitch joins all the pieces.

Advantages. It is a construction that achieves a longer lasting footwear, and also allows the substitution of the soles more easily.

Disadvantages. In very wet or rainy weather, footwear with this type of construction can cause water to get inside the footwear.

Examples: Rosi Shoes - BLACK LABEL

GOODYEAR SEWED FOOTWEAR

Goodyear splicing or sewing is one of the oldest footwear construction methods. It is the most elaborate and durable of all the methods that we describe in this article. Originally this type of sewing was only done manually, until in the year 1869 Charles Goodyear Jr (son of the inventor of vulcanized tire rubber) invented a machine that allowed sewing to be done much faster.

First, the template is prepared for sewing, sewing a perpendicular welt around the entire contour, the remaining hole is filled with a mixture of glue and cork, and lastly the welt is sewn to the sole.

Advantages. This construction process allows the sole to be replaced more easily, and can also be done by machine or by hand. The footwear becomes more waterproof and durable.

Disadvantages . Due to the work it takes, Goodyear Stitched Footwear is priced higher. Also due to the extra layers they make the shoe a little less flexible.

Examples: Carmina, Edward Green

BILLY SEWED FOOTWEAR

Billy stitching or outer stitching, like splicing is a very old shoe construction method, very simple and straightforward to manufacture. It is mainly used for the manufacture of shoes, boots and sandals such as Menorcan sandals and safari boots (commonly known as pisacacas).

This method consists of bending the cut to the outside to glue it to the insole and then sew it, finally the cut and template assembly are glued to the sole.

Advantages . The main advantage is the flexibility that is achieved in footwear manufactured in this way, it is also a form of construction with an unbeatable relationship of comfort, price and durability.

Disadvantages . The main disadvantage of this form of shoe manufacturing is that in very rainy weather water can get inside the shoe.

Examples: Atxa - Calzados Arancha

KIOWA CONSTRUCTION FOOTWEAR

The kiowa or "glove" construction is characterized in that the cut wraps the foot , that is, the insole is the same leather as the upper part of the shoe, as if it were a glove.

To fix the sole, it can be combined with GLUE or SEWED BLAKE.

Advantages . The most outstanding advantage is the flexibility and adaptation to the foot that is achieved with footwear made with the Kiowa technique.

Disadvantages . The only downside to kiowa manufacturing is that it is a very laborious technique that requires great skill from the artisan.

Examples: Edward´s - Castilian shoes Rosi

VULCANIZED FOOTWEAR

The vulcanized construction is a form mainly used for the manufacture of canvas footwear (slippers at home, tarpaulins, ballerinas and shoes for boys and girls)

For the manufacture of footwear by vulcanizing, the cut is first sewn with the insole to fit them, then in the last. Then raw rubber is introduced into the sole mold, and the last is placed with the cut, to then precede the rubber by “heating” and pressure to get it to melt and adopt the shape of the mold joining at the same time to the cut.

Advantages . The union of the upper with the sole is very resistant, durable and flexible. Another advantage is the speed and low manufacturing cost.

Disadvantages . Once the sole is worn, it is impossible to replace it, this way of manufacturing is indicated exclusively for footwear made of very porous material, such as fabric and split leather.

Examples: Batilas , Alberola , Cabrera

FOOTWEAR INJECTED

The construction of injected footwear is probably the most comfortable there is, widely used for the manufacture of sport footwear.

In the manufacture of footwear through the injection process, the cut is adjusted to a metal mold in the shape of the floor, and then the hot rubber in a liquid state is pressed into the mold. Once the rubber cools down and acquires the desired shape, it is removed from the mold, obtaining a very strong and durable bond.

Advantages . The union of the cut with the sole is very solid and totally impervious to the entrance of liquids from the outside, in addition to achieving great flexibility by reducing the number of pieces between the cut and the sole.

Disadvantages . It is impossible to replace the sole once worn, this system is quite expensive, since each new sole model requires a mold for each size.

Examples: Luisetti

 

It is difficult to say which is the best method of manufacturing footwear, since each technique has its advantages and disadvantages, in addition, a pisacacas boot is not the same as a shoe to be at home, as a boot or shoe that we it has to last for several years.